Taipei’s Route of History, Community and Nature

By Wendy Kung

When I first moved back to Taipei, my initial impression of this city, like most travelers, was dominated by Taipei 101. However, one sunny weekend 10 years ago, I decided to explore the city’s public transportation options, including the MRT and bus system, to reach the nearby mountains for a hike. My initial worries about infrequent schedules, delays, and difficulty finding bus stops quickly dissipated with each smooth transfer. It was then that I realized, as a metropolis surrounded by mountains, Taipei also holds a surprising identity as an adventure hub for hiking. After years of taking public transportation to go hiking, there’s only one route that combines history, local community, food and natural scenery so perfectly that I tirelessly explore it over and over again — that’s Jinguashi (金瓜石), which is also called Gold Museum Park, Taiwan’s first Eco-museum. This hiking route is an easy day trip from Taipei.

Jinguashi day trip from Taipei

How to get to Jinguashi

To avoid the midday sun and afternoon showers, it is best to set out early for a day trip from Taipei to Jinguashi (map). From Taipei, there are two main bus routes available. If you stay near Ximen or Taipei Main Station, you should opt for bus 965. For those near Songshan Station or Raohe Night Market, bus 1062 is the alternative. Both routes operate every 15 to 20 minutes, with the journey taking approximately one hour. A quick note, local family hiking groups also board the bus during weekends, so the seat availability might be limited if you travel late. 

The Gold Museum Park

Upon arrival, you find yourself at the entrance of the Gold Museum Park. As an Eco-museum, it preserves the abandoned tunnels, factory facilities, settlements, Japanese shrine, and Taiwanese temples of Jinguashi since its closure in 1987. The sites are scattered from the mountain waist to the top, connected with steep stairs. So the best way to explore the museum is by hiking.

Jinguashi Loop Hike

The area around Jinguashi offers numerous hiking trails, ranging from two-hour trips to full-day excursions. The scenery typically features mountain ranges and the Pacific Ocean, with fishing boats, harbors, mountain towns, and countless gold mine relics dotting the landscape along the north-south routes. For first time visitors, the historical small loop trail is a good choice. It is less than 4 kilometers long, has a maximum ascent of about 300 meters, and features many heritage sites along the way.

The trailhead is located next to the Ben Shan Wu Keng (本山五坑) venue, on a little-used staircase path. Shortly after climbing the stone steps, a torii gate and stone lanterns appear, marking the entrance to the Shinto shrine path ruins. During the Japanese colonial period (1895-1945), frequent bandit activity led the mining company to build a shrine here in 1898 to calm the populace. However, the main shrine building was reduced to just its foundation and pillars due to the ravages of World War II and post-war reconstruction.

Teapot Mountain

Continuing the hike, the forest on either side of the steps transforms into tall silver grass, swaying in the morning sunlight. Reaching the highest point, when you look toward the Pacific Ocean just as a cloud drifts in, the century-old mountain town and the deep blue sea appear faint and mystical. In the distance, a prominent rock formation stands out on a mountaintop, resembling a teapot without a handle, aptly named “Teapot Mountain” (無耳茶壺山).

Next comes a flat, wide gravel path, passing by the Ben Shan Mine (本山礦場). The waste rocks from mining are arranged into an array. As one of the most important gold and copper deposits in Jinguashi, Great Jinguashi Mountain had been mined for over a century, lowering its original 660-meter height by more than 100 meters.

Near the end of the gravel path, the trail turns onto a descending grassy route. It passes a shaft used for transportation and ventilation, as well as the “Black Meat Flats,” formed by discarded black ore. Finally, you pass the ruins of Japanese miners’ dormitories, covered in creeping plants, before returning to the Museum entrance.

Nostalgic Bento Lunch 

As noon approaches, it’s time to satisfy your hungry stomach. Inside the Gold Museum park, there are a few large dining halls catering to tour groups. However, under the big banyan tree next to the post office, you’ll find a small “Miner’s Canteen” with a capacity of just over ten people. The canteen provides stainless steel boxed meals with options for either meat or vegetarian dishes. Dining under the tree with a lunchbox full of nostalgic flavors is wonderfully relaxing! The canteen provides food waste bins for leftovers and a nearby water dispenser for refilling water bottles.

The Hike through Venues and Old Streets

Now it’s the perfect time to spend the afternoon exploring the venues and old streets in the park. The park included several exhibition halls, notably the Gold Hall, housed in the former office of the Taiwan Metal Mining Corp. Besides historical artifacts, it featured simulations of tunnel systems and transportation networks used in the Jinguashi mining area. The centerpiece is a hefty 220.3-kilogram gold brick, a must-touch item for visitors seeking good fortune. Next to the hall is Ben Shan Wu Keng, a former gold mine pit. Visitors are required to wear helmets to enter the tunnel and experience the life of miners.

Since its opening in 2005, the museum has collaborated with local communities for nearly 20 years. It has gradually cultivated a distinct cultural atmosphere unlike the bustling Jiufen Old Street nearby. For instance, you’ll find a local tofu pudding shop “Shan Ding Dou Hua” (山頂豆花). This shop echoes the tradition of miners enjoying sweets before entering the mines. Local residents have also renovated old houses, establishing homestays, cafes, and miner’s workshops, slowly revitalizing the once desolate settlements.

Exploring the park requires extensive hiking. However, you’ll be able to delve into what made this town so unique in its history, heritage, community and nature. And don’t worry about the return bus, which runs till late evening with a satisfying frequency.